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The Holy Land in a week · Stop 11 · Day 4
Qasr al-Yahud on the Jordan

In the Bible
Jesus came from Galilee to the Jordan to be baptized by John. Israel crossed the river opposite Jericho; near Jericho Elijah and Elisha crossed it on dry ground.
At that time Jesus came from Galilee to the Jordan to be baptized by John. But John tried to prevent Him, saying, “I need to be baptized by You, and do You come to me?” “Let it be so now,” Jesus replied. “It is fitting for us to fulfill all righteousness in this way.” Then John permitted Him. As soon as Jesus was baptized, He went up out of the water. Suddenly the heavens were opened, and He saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove and resting on Him. And a voice from heaven said, “This is My beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased!”Now the Jordan overflows its banks throughout the harvest season. But as soon as the priests carrying the ark reached the Jordan and their feet touched the water’s edge, the flowing water stood still. It backed up as far upstream as Adam, a city in the area of Zarethan, while the water flowing toward the Sea of the Arabah (the Salt Sea) was completely cut off. So the people crossed over opposite Jericho. The priests carrying the ark of the covenant of the LORD stood firm on dry ground in the middle of the Jordan, while all Israel crossed over the dry ground, until the entire nation had crossed the Jordan.Then a company of fifty of the sons of the prophets went and stood at a distance, facing Elijah and Elisha as the two of them stood by the Jordan. And Elijah took his cloak, rolled it up, and struck the waters, which parted to the right and to the left, so that the two of them crossed over on dry ground. After they had crossed over, Elijah said to Elisha, “Tell me, what can I do for you before I am taken away from you?” “Please, let me inherit a double portion of your spirit,” Elisha replied. “You have requested a difficult thing,” said Elijah. “Nevertheless, if you see me as I am taken from you, it will be yours. But if not, then it will not be so.” As they were walking along and talking together, suddenly a chariot of fire with horses of fire appeared and separated the two of them, and Elijah went up into heaven in a whirlwind.Tradition
By tradition since Byzantine times, Jesus was baptized at this bend of the river. The east bank, Al-Maghtas, keeps the same tradition; pilgrims come to both.
Here today
Steps and wooden platforms lead down to the narrow, muddy river, with monasteries of several churches nearby. Pilgrims wade in, many in white robes.
Through the eyes of old pilgrims
So we saw the Jordan very dimly. The thickets of bushes that bordered its banks threw their shadows across its shallow, turbulent waters … and we could not judge of the width of the stream by the eye.Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad, 1869
The Jordan flows swiftly; its banks are steep on the far side and gently sloping on this side … In every way the Jordan is like the river Snov, in width and in depth, and it flows winding and very swiftly, just like the Snov. In the middle of the bathing place it is 4 sazhens deep, as I measured and tested myself.Abbot Daniel, 1106–1108 · our translation
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Land outlines: Natural Earth (public domain).